美食记法国隆河谷探索（二）：Côte-Rôtie 活动后记

发表于：2013/2/22 14:04:02 | 最后修改于：2013/2/22 15:40:39

来自:杯酒人生楼主

美食记法国隆河谷探索（二）：Cote-Rotie 活动后记，一场毁三观的探索

先上照片，感谢WineAndy提供酒款资料；

开场warm up用的Les Vins de Vienne Saint-Peray les Bialeres 2008，

Marsanne/ Roussanne blend;

http://www.gourmet114.com/subject/11192/

第一支，Les Vins de Vienne Cote-Rotie Les Essartailles 2008

Les Vins de Vienne由Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard, Fran?ois Villard一起组建的合作社。

100% Syrah, half northern, half southern sector, 85% destemmed, cool pre-fermentation, 3-4 week vinification, pumping overs, twice daily cap punchings, aged 25% new (until 2006-07 was 80%), 75% 1-2 year oak casks 16-18 months, unfined, unfiltered, 12,000 bl;

第二支，Domaine Georges Vernay Cote Rotie Blonde du Seigneur 2010

北隆Condrieus酿造Viognier的名家Domaine George Vernay.

92% Syrah (1987, 1999), 8% Viognier from Coteaux de Semons, Lancement (40%), Bassenon (60%), destemmed, 3 week vinification, pumping overs, 1-2 manual cap punchings, aged 30% new,

70% 3-4 year oak 18 months, unfined, filtered, first wine 2000, 8-10,000 bl;

Robert Parker: 88

While I did not taste their top Cote Rotie cuvee, the 2010 Cote Rotie Blonde des Seigneurs is an elegant, supple, seductive effort revealing notes of Asian plum sauce, spring flowers, underbrush, raspberries and black currants. Consume this medium-bodied 2010 over the next 7-8 years.

This iconic estate, long known for its splendid Condrieus, can also do brilliant work with red wines. The Condrieu portfolio is superb.

第三支，Domaine Jamet Cote Rotie 2008

Robert Parker: 85;

Tasting through both cuvees of Jamet’s 2008 Cote Roties showed the 2008 Cote Rotie regular bottling to be herbaceous, tannic, austere and tough to grasp. It possesses a dark ruby color as well as some raspberry and herbal fruit, but it comes across as sinewy and astringent.

A core C?te-R?tie domaine, family-run, with a good, whole-hearted style of wine. The unpretentious classic rises to heights in the top years like 1998, 1999, 2005 and 2007. The C?te Brune is one of the best C?te-R?ties, a suitable legacy for the hard work of Joseph Jamet. There is also a really good Syrah vin de pays as well and a red C?tes du Rh?ne that can be way above its station in years like 2005.

from mainly northern sector sites near Ampuis, 5-40% destemmed according to vintage quality, 18-21 day vinification, pumping overs on whole bunch crop, cap punching on destemmed grapes, aged 20% new, 80% 2-10 year 550 and 228-litre oak casks 22 months, unfined, unfiltered, 30,000 b

第四支，E.Guigal Cote Rotie Cotes Brune et Blonde 1989

Robert Parker: 90

Guigal has made a round, elegant, generously flavored, soft and precocious 1989 Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde. Fully mature, this is a delicious, seductive, dark ruby-colored wine that should be drunk over the next decade. Last tasted 7/96.

The regular cuvees of Cote Rotie each reflect the character of the vintage. The 1989 Brune et Blonde should be the best of the 1989, 1990 and 1991 vintages. It possesses a deeper, more saturated color, fabulously rich fruit, a big perfume of black-raspberries and roasted nuts, and a rich, corpulent, long finish. It should drink well for the next 10-12 years.

Contrary to some reports, Guigal does not intend to bottle a fourth single vineyard Cote Rotie from holdings he has in La Pommiere vineyard. This vineyard continues to produce magnificent wine that is the backbone of the blend he fashions for his regular cuvee of Cote Brune et Blonde.

95% Syrah, 5% Viognier, crop from domaine harvest, plus 40+ suppliers, 25-day vinification, automatic cap punching, aged 40% new, 60% 2-year oak 228 litre casks (until 2003 85% cask-aged in 35% new, 65% young oak, 15% 15-20 year large barrels) 36 months, unfined, filtered, 250,000 b

第五支，E.Guigal Cote Rotie Cotes Brune et Blonde 2004 （Alex 加餐酒，感谢阿杰）

第六支，E.Guigal Cote Rotie La Landonne 2004

Robert Parker: 95;

The densest, most concentrated and impressive offering is the 2004 Cote Rotie La Landonne. Aromas of Peking duck, bouquet garni, graphite, asphalt, blackberries, and charcoal soar from the glass of this full-bodied, dense, remarkably concentrated 2004. In a vintage where record-setting yields were the norm in the northern Rhone, this wine possesses a level of concentration that is hard to believe. It should drink well for 15 or more years.

第七支，Michel & Stéphane Ogier C?te-R?tie Cuvée la Belle Hélène 2004

Robert Parker: 91-93+

The limited production but phenomenal 2004 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is one of the candidates for the wine of the vintage. Tannic and dense ruby/purple, it is more masculine and austere than usual, but still concentrated with tangy acidity, loads of tannin, and impressive levels of concentration and richness. This is a beauty that will require patience. Give it 3-4 years of bottle age and then drink it over the following 10-12 years.

The Ogiers are a wonderful family, and it’s gratifying to see the extraordinary quality of wine that continues to emerge from them. The son Stephane has taken over fully from his dad, who seems to be inching into full retirement, and continues to push the estate to higher and higher levels of quality.

M and S OGIER d`AMPUIS

LVT 2011 r 2011 wh Progressive domaine, in the hands of enthusiastic, switched-on son Stéphane. Plots vinified separately. Active cellar techniques, interventionist. Plenty of oak use - wines are marked by this early on, and can be oppressive.Stéphane cutting back on new oak from 2004, which is a positive development. Best wines, eg Belle Hélène, have richness to handle the oak. Now very expensive. Sound mini-négociant wines, notably Les Embruns, and a successful, accomplished vin de pays Syrah La Rosine.

from 1950s Syrah on C?te Rozier, 3-4 week vinification, pumping overs more than cap punchings, aged new 228-litre oak casks 12 months (“the new oak helps C?te Rozier to be less austere”, S.O.), then 1-year 228-litre oak casks 18 months, final selection of best casks, unfiltered, first wine 1997, 1-2,100 bl